This post supplies 12 volts of power whenever the car is turned on. So if you don't mind having your boost gauge light constantly on when the car is running, you can attach it to this bolt post. Trying to connect the aftermarket stereo ignition wire, which is usually yellow with a red stripe, to the Volkswagen radio harness will not work. Connecting the ignition wire to another wire and running it to the 75x post will allow the stereo to work properly when the car is turned on and off.
You can also use this post if you want to run floorboard LEDs loser or anything else that runs off of volt power that you want to turn on once your car is switched on. The two posts next to the 75x, which I believe are labeled 30x. I can't think of any logical use for them besides blinking alarm lights, unless maybe you want to set up surveillance equipment in your car. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
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Learn How To Install Boost Gauge The Quicker Way
Please choose which areas of our service you consent to our doing so. For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Installing a Boost Gauge. Tools and Parts for Installing Wires. Teflon plumbing tape, electrical tape, double-sided tape Needle-nose pliers Vise grips Various wrenches at least a 10 mm Flathead screwdrivers Torx screwdriver or bit gauge wire around two feet Butt connectors Boost gauge tubing kit and pod.
Install Time and Tips This instillation should take about 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on how fast you work and any complications you might come across. Installing the Boost Gauge Wiring At the bottom of your knee panels beneath the steering wheel there will be 3 Torx screws, I believe size 20 or Remove those three screws, and the plastic panel above the pedals can now be removed.
No picture here, as mine was missing.
Take a flathead screwdriver—with some electrical tape folded over the blade so you will not scratch the button or vent—and lightly pry at the sides of the dimmer switch. With very little pressure you should be able to release it. Once it is released, wiggle it out as much as you can. The switch is being held on by two metal tabs on the sides. If one should fall off, don't worry, they can be slid back onto the switch during re-installation. You should be able to work the switch out enough to reach the wire harness clipped into the back. Squeezing the sides of the harness will release it from the dimmer switch.
Pull open the fuse panel door, use a screwdriver in the little notch if needed and place it to the side. Now pull directly out on the panel surrounding the fuses. It is placed in there the same as the fuse door, clips around the front and sides and slides out in the back.
Pull it like in the picture and once it starts to pop out wedge your fingers in the crack and gently pry it off. The piece of trim directly above the steering column will also need to come out, but does not need to be completely removed it is connected in the middle by a piece of leather. Just grab it on both sides of the steering column and pull forward; it should slide out pretty easily.
Reaching into the side panel that you removed, you can pull out the harness that you disconnected from the dimmer switch.
Basic Hands-On - How to Fit a Boost Gauge
The harness will have three wires attached to it: Cut the grey wire with the blue stripe about two inches down from the harness, and strip the ends of both sides. Take whatever wire you will be using as your positive connection and feed it through the trim you removed on the steering column. Looking through the side panel you will be able to see it flapping around in there, grab it and pull it to the dimmer wire harness.
Before you crimp the other side on, it helps to fold over the wire to make it a little thicker.
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Once both sides are crimped you should have a connection like in the picture below. Next, you will have to run the electrical connector into the cabin the way you would have run the hose. It is time to remove the lower dash from the metal support beam which is normally found under the steering column. You will have to remove four bolts, but in some cars, you will get another bolt which is normally behind a small panel on the lower dash. You can remove it by popping off the panel and removing the bolt. The center column cover is removed, and from there, you will be able to get the turbo timer harness.
Check out the wires; red, white and black. The red wire is for constant power supply; the white lead to the light; and the black is the ground wire.
Tools and Parts for Installing Wires
There is optional colored orange, which, if present, is for switching the power. A section of the insulation on the red wire is removed using the stripping tool, and then you can splice your boost gauge to a constant power. The orange line should be connected to the blue or green wire on the turbo timer harness. The ignition column can be teed into, and then you can attach the switched power to the cigarette lighter.
When you are done, you will love your completed job, and your car will be safe. Make sure to purchase the correct boost gauge for your type of car to make the installation an easy task. If you are not sure which one to get, it is best you consult your mechanic as it is not good to do guess work as far as your car accessories are concerned. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Things To Use 1. Wire Cutters And Splicers. The Vacuum Port When you go out shopping for a boost gauge, you will find that there are two types, with most of them not requiring a sensor for the installation to take place.
The top of the gauge screws off and then the gauge is placed behind the mounting panel, and inserted into the panel so the front screw cap can be secured onto the gauge. Tighten the screw cap onto the gauge tightly and the gauge will stay in one place during use. If the gauge uses screws or nuts and bolts to secure the mount, do this now to ensure the gauge is protected from damage. Direct the boost gauge sending unit through the firewall of the vehicle into the engine compartment using existing wire harness passages to complete this task. Cut a notch out of a rubber grommet that protects existing wiring or cables to pass the sender unit hose through to the engine compartment for connecting to the boost system.
Secure the hosing using plastic tie downs that can secure the new hose to existing wire and hose pathways. Connect to the existing boost system of the turbo charged engine package via existing vacuum hosing that can be found connecting to the intake manifold of the engine. Another method would be to drill and tap directly into the exhaust manifold to get the most precise readings.
The latter method is expert rated. The vacuum hose boost gauge activation is times better than a factory gauge or a turbo engine without a gauge, so keep it simple for the best results overall.